Rim to Rim to Rim
- Rhianna Walzer
- Mar 6
- 8 min read
Updated: May 1
The Double-Crossing of the Grand Canyon - 44 miles and 11,500 feet of vertical gain
Quick Stats
April 20, 2024
5:43 am start time
South Kaibab to North Kaibab and back
44.33 miles
11,483 ft of elevation gain
14 hours and 18 minutes
GPX File
Trip Overview
Rim to Rim to Rim is one of the most famous trails among runners in North America. There are multiple trail variations, with the most popular beginning at the South Kaibab Trailhead, traveling to the North Kaibab trailhead, and doubling back. R3 offers 44 miles of epic scenery, rugged terrain, diverse ecosystems, and the kindest humans challenging themselves and creating memories on the same trail.
I started trail running in 2023. I remember visiting Grand Canyon National Park in November that year. I did a 10 mile training run from the Bright Angel Trailhead. I was stopped by a curious hiker who asked: “Are you going all the way across?” to which I responded: “Oh my gosh, no!” not even knowing that was an option. Running across the Grand Canyon?! You’re kidding! That sounds impossible. My interest peaked.
I finished my run and immediately researched this so-called run across the Grand Canyon - You’re kidding again! Not only can you run across, you can turn around and come back! A double crossing of the Grand Canyon! That sounds even more impossible. I was hooked.
That exact day I made it a goal to complete R3 in spring of 2024 just a handful of months away. That exact day I wrote a 12-week training program and circled April 20, for some reason (I now know this is a bit late in the running season and too hot). That exact day I became limitlessly obsessed with these “big trails”. No race fee, no medal, no unripe bananas at the finish line. It is just you and your own knowledge and skills, completing something epic. Obsessed. Addicted. I wanted to do them all. I wanted to experience as many of these adventures as possible. Truly, that day in the Grand Canyon, I uncovered this deep desire to have grand adventures, doing challenging things in beautiful landscapes. My first objective: R3.
My brother’s good friend, Tyler Ronk, learned I was training for R3 and inquired about doing it together given it had been on his bucket list. Of course! Little did I know, this was the start of a great partnership and friendship. There is something about suffering with someone and accomplishing a great challenge that bonds you. Heck - I peed on myself twice during R3 (I now know that my pelvic floor muscles tend to give up after 10 hours of exercise). If that doesn’t bond two strangers, I don’t know what does!
On that TMI note from the trail, let’s get into the trip report.
Trip Report
We stayed just outside of the park in a tiny house in Williams. Jacob, myself, and our dog in the van and Tyler in a little cabin with only a bed and a detached outhouse. Over dinner we discussed our game plan, learning all water between Phantom Ranch and the North Rim was off due to a waterline break (see note on water). Phantom Ranch was also forecasted to reach 95 degrees. We mulled over our water and nutrition plan and laid out the gear (see gear list) for the morning. I dreamt of what 95 degrees would feel like at mile 35.
April 20, 2024. We woke up around 4:30 am and fueled ourselves with coffee and eggs. The stars were shining bright and the morning air was crisp. Jacob drove from our tiny home in Williams to the South Kaibab turn off (see note on parking). There were so many people starting their days, ready to stake claim at a sunrise viewpoint. We tied our shoes, threw on our packs, and hugged Jacob goodbye. Holy shit - It’s time.
We started our watches at the official South Kaibab trailhead at 5:43 am and began the knee-startling descent towards Phantom Ranch. Tyler set our descent pace and I got wide-eyed when we ran our first mile sub-9 minutes. I had been dreaming about this exact moment for months and it felt good to move that fast downhill. At 5:53 am the sun crept over the North Rim and lit us up along with the South Rim. Alpenglow showed us layers of reds and oranges. It was jaw dropping. We stopped for photos, of course.
Not too long after sunrise, we caught up to a mule train and enjoyed a short break walking behind them as they kicked up dust and carried on with their morning commute. Our legs were grateful as the grade eased up and we crossed the Colorado River via the Black Bridge, a symbol marking the bottom of the Grand Canyon. The Black Bridge also marks the official switch from South Kaibab trail to North Kaibab trail. We were well on our way.
We arrived at Phantom Ranch around 7:15 am. It was like an aid station that early. Runners and hikers took their packs off, refilled waters, and shared countless exchanges of: “Where are you from?” and “No way, me too!” We also learned that the North Rim had water available at the NPS Admin Building. It would add a mile to our day but we wouldn’t have to carry hours and hours worth of water. We could feel the canyon heating up and were grateful to learn this critical information.
After Phantom Ranch we entered The Box, a narrow gulch that expanded as we made our way to the North Rim. The Box is well known for its heat. It isn’t much wider than the Bright Angel Creek that runs through it. Cliffs tower hundreds of feet above and the rock absorbs heat throughout the day. It’s a natural oven. Running through The Box in the morning had us anxious to feel its fire on our way back through in the afternoon. But with cool temperatures to start, we happily meandered, crossing over bridges, zig zagging over Bright Angel Creek. The miles from Phantom Ranch to Manzanita go quick. The views are unmatched and the single track feels fast. We mentally prepared for the North Rim climb ahead focusing on the crunching of our feet.
We stopped at Manzanita for a quick breather, filling up our soft flasks with water from the bladder we filled at Phantom Ranch. We grabbed out more calories to munch on during the slow climb. 5 miles and 5,000 feet of vertical gain stood between us and the northern terminus of R3. We took out our trekking poles and began to chip away at the steep climb. The average grade on this section of the North Kaibab Trail is 21%.
The North Rim feels like another world. Snow patches dot the red landscape and eventually we snaked into a lush forest. The ecosystem is entirely different from the South Rim and you can’t believe that 5,761 feet below you it’s nearing 100 degrees.
The climb from Manzanita to the North Rim trailhead took us two hours. We arrived exactly at noon. The additional mile we trudged to get water from the NPS Admin Building felt like a slap in the face as our quads screamed at us for making the trail longer. But let me tell you, that water was heavenly. Ice cold and crystal clear, it gave us a new wave of energy. We enjoyed water, candy, and conversation with AZT thru-hikers and other trail runners prepping for the trek back to the South Rim.
Full of water, sugar, and gratitude, we turned around, post-holed through snow patches, and connected back twitch the North Kaibab Trail. My brain didn’t even think of the 22 miles that stood between us and a shower. I was floored by what it was looking at. Heading south on the North Kaibab Trail remains one of the most breathtaking landscapes I've seen with my two eyes.
We returned to our speedy descent pace led by Tyler and crept closer and closer to the oven that lay thousands of feet below. Moving downhill allowed for more talking. We took turns sharing stories and talking about our lives back home that felt like a different universe than where we were in the present. We retraced our steps, following the creek back towards Phantom Ranch. Only difference, it was 30 degrees hotter.
We made it through The Box arriving at Phantom Ranch for the second time around 4:00 pm. There were people everywhere. It was a bit overwhelming after sharing the quiet North Kaibab Trail with only runners and AZT thru-hikers. We had our hearts set on getting lemonade from the Phantom Ranch Canteen only to be disappointed by a line dozens long. The electrolytes we had packed would have to do. We did our final water refill and stretched our legs while staring at the 4,460 feet that stood between us and completing R3.
We retraced our steps over Black Bridge and began chipping away at the climb. It was slow-moving. We would power hike for about a half mile and take a rest. Our legs shutting down and pleading to be done moving. We searched through our bags for headlamps while watching the sunset over the miles we had explored for that day. Sunset was incredible. With only a mile or two left we took in the colorful show knowing the trail end was near.
We crested over the South Rim at 8:00 pm, greeted by the van and flat ground. We did it. We did the trail I thought was impossible only five months earlier. I couldn’t believe that it was over. Somehow the day was a blink of an eye.
We completed R3 in 14 hours and 18 minutes. We watched the sun rise and set over the big ditch. We experienced a 100+ degree day in The Box and postholed through snow on the North Rim. With over half of the waterline shut down, we had heavier packs to carry more water over greater mileage. Rim to Rim to Rim is challenging, rewarding, and invigorating. I believe any one can and should do this trail. With proper training, gear, and grit you too can experience this Grand adventure.
Tips & Tricks
Training
I followed my 16-week 50 mile training program in preparation for R3. Read the training program article and download the plan for yourself [Here].
Water
Water access can be the crux on R3. The time of year impacts which water fill ups are available and even if water is in season, the Grand Canyon waterline is notorious for breaking. When we ran, all water on the North Kaibab trail was off due to broken pipes. We filled up at Phantom Ranch and the NPS Admin Building on the North Rim (Adds an additional mile).
You can check the NPS site to see which water spots are in season and open. Calling the Backcountry Information Center to double-check water availability is also an option and a great gut-check, (928) 638-7875. Check the day before and morning of. I also packed a natural source water filter and a water treatment option, just in case.
Parking
Private vehicle parking is not permitted at South Kaibab Trailhead. You either need a drop-off crew or take the free park bus. Same goes for pick-up! For our adventure, in the morning, Jacob dropped us off at the intersection for the S Kaibab Trailhead Access Rd and we walked to the official start. In the evening, we messaged Jacob on the Garmin inReach to let him know we had 1 mile left and he met us at the official trailhead since it was not busy or patrolled at 8:00 pm.
Gear List
Kit
Garmin Fenix 7S Pro Watch
Salmon Active Skin 8 Vest
Black Diamond Running Poles
Black Diamond Headlamp
Salomon Bonatti Cross Wind Jacket
Salomon Sense Aero T-shirt
Salomon Sense Aero 5” Shorts
Darn Tough Micro Crew Socks
Hoka Mafate Trail Runners
Hoka Running hat
Goodr Sunglasses
Water
2 x 500mL Soft Flasks
1L Platypus SoftBottle
Sawyer Squeeze Water Filter
Aquatabs
Emergency Pouch
Garmin inReach Mini 2
First Aid Kit
Tylenol
Sunscreen
Nutrition
BPN G1M Sport powder
SaltStick Chews
Kate's Real Food Bars
Dates
Sour Candy
Chomp Beef Sticks
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